Workmate 79-001 Replacement Top/Jaws
The wooden vise jaws are often the most damaged or deteriorated parts of a vintage Workmate. Making new jaws is a pretty straightforward woodworking project, made easier because the measurements are not particularly critical. You can find a number of web pages and videos about how to make them.
Remember that the holes in Workmate jaws for the swivel pegs are 20mm in diameter, slightly larger than 3/4". If you don't have a 20mm drill but have some large standard sizes to choose from, try a 51/64" or a 13/16" and see if your pegs fit the hole well enough or feel too loose. A 25/32" may also be an option, but at .006" smaller might be too tight. If you aren't concerned about keeping your top authentic, and don't intend to use any of the swivel pegs or Workmate accessory clamps, feel free to make 3/4" holes. There are lots of 3/4" bench accessories on the market to choose from.
You will have to choose what hole pattern you want: the 10-hole pattern of the Type E, 1, 3, and 5; the 9-hole 4-corner pattern of the early Type 2; or the 9-hole zigzag of all others. Or if you're not going with authenticity, you can create your own hole pattern. I've seen some replacements that have no holes at all, some with T-track, and some with dovetailed grooves.
The Type E as well as the most common 79-001's, the Type 2, 4, 6, 7, and 8, attach the jaws from below with wood screws through metal brackets. This makes it relatively easy to mark and drill pilot holes in the proper locations. The Type 1, 3, and 5 use machine bolts threaded into the jaws from below through rectangular metal blocks. Replacement jaws could very well use wood screws through the same blocks. The Type 9 uses machine bolts that go downward through the top into threaded holes below. This design requires precise placement of the mounting holes.
The original tops have V-grooves in the gripping edge both horizontally and vertically to better grip round objects, such as pipes. They also have slightly beveled edges to protect against chipping.
You have to decide on top thickness, and whether to double up the jaw at the gripping edge. Your choice of thickness and doubled edges does not have to be the same as what came from the factory. You can also make new jaws that are wider and longer than the originals, although the front jaw has to allow clearance for the vise handles.
And finally there is the choice of material—plywood, hardwood, softwood, etc. I've been very satisfied with the original 13-ply or more, high-quality birch plywood, so I would stick with that. Look for a good quality Baltic birch, not the cheaper Chinese imitations you sometimes find at big-box stores. If your work is really hard on the top, construction lumber would be an inexpensive choice for frequent replacement. If it spends a lot of time in the weather, some type of decking such as ipe or Trex might be good.
Here is the replacement report from an owner who did not make his own, but did create very good measured drawings for someone else to make them:
https://www.vintageveloce.com/2017/05/new-top-jaws-for-black-decker-workmate.html
Note that his plans are for the 9-hole 4-corner pattern which was used only on the Type 2, from May 1975 to February 1976.
If you would prefer to buy replacement jaws, there are some high-quality new ones available online. One example is an eBay seller in England:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/usr/catalin8888
He provided me with information and advice that helped with my documentation of the early UK models of the Workmate.
Remember that the holes in Workmate jaws for the swivel pegs are 20mm in diameter, slightly larger than 3/4". If you don't have a 20mm drill but have some large standard sizes to choose from, try a 51/64" or a 13/16" and see if your pegs fit the hole well enough or feel too loose. A 25/32" may also be an option, but at .006" smaller might be too tight. If you aren't concerned about keeping your top authentic, and don't intend to use any of the swivel pegs or Workmate accessory clamps, feel free to make 3/4" holes. There are lots of 3/4" bench accessories on the market to choose from.
You will have to choose what hole pattern you want: the 10-hole pattern of the Type E, 1, 3, and 5; the 9-hole 4-corner pattern of the early Type 2; or the 9-hole zigzag of all others. Or if you're not going with authenticity, you can create your own hole pattern. I've seen some replacements that have no holes at all, some with T-track, and some with dovetailed grooves.
The Type E as well as the most common 79-001's, the Type 2, 4, 6, 7, and 8, attach the jaws from below with wood screws through metal brackets. This makes it relatively easy to mark and drill pilot holes in the proper locations. The Type 1, 3, and 5 use machine bolts threaded into the jaws from below through rectangular metal blocks. Replacement jaws could very well use wood screws through the same blocks. The Type 9 uses machine bolts that go downward through the top into threaded holes below. This design requires precise placement of the mounting holes.
The original tops have V-grooves in the gripping edge both horizontally and vertically to better grip round objects, such as pipes. They also have slightly beveled edges to protect against chipping.
You have to decide on top thickness, and whether to double up the jaw at the gripping edge. Your choice of thickness and doubled edges does not have to be the same as what came from the factory. You can also make new jaws that are wider and longer than the originals, although the front jaw has to allow clearance for the vise handles.
And finally there is the choice of material—plywood, hardwood, softwood, etc. I've been very satisfied with the original 13-ply or more, high-quality birch plywood, so I would stick with that. Look for a good quality Baltic birch, not the cheaper Chinese imitations you sometimes find at big-box stores. If your work is really hard on the top, construction lumber would be an inexpensive choice for frequent replacement. If it spends a lot of time in the weather, some type of decking such as ipe or Trex might be good.
Here is the replacement report from an owner who did not make his own, but did create very good measured drawings for someone else to make them:
https://www.vintageveloce.com/2017/05/new-top-jaws-for-black-decker-workmate.html
Note that his plans are for the 9-hole 4-corner pattern which was used only on the Type 2, from May 1975 to February 1976.
If you would prefer to buy replacement jaws, there are some high-quality new ones available online. One example is an eBay seller in England:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/usr/catalin8888
He provided me with information and advice that helped with my documentation of the early UK models of the Workmate.